temples and pilgrimage
What is the Sabarimala pilgrimage and what are its unique rules and customs?
Who is Lord Ayyappa
Ayyappa is the deity at the heart of this pilgrimage. He is understood in the tradition as a celibate god, one who has taken a permanent vow of brahmacharya, meaning complete renunciation of worldly life. This celibate nature shapes almost every rule of the pilgrimage. Pilgrims are expected to live like him during the preparation period, setting aside ordinary comforts and desires. Ayyappa is also seen as a unifying deity, drawing devotees across caste and community lines.
The 41-day preparation
Before setting out, pilgrims observe a 41-day vow called the vratam. During this time they wear black or blue clothing, eat simple vegetarian food, sleep on the floor, avoid alcohol, stay celibate, and pray twice a day. They are addressed as Ayyappa, not by their own names, as a sign that they are living as the deity's devotees. A guru, usually an experienced pilgrim, initiates them into the vow and guides them through it. The preparation is seen as as important as the journey itself.
The irumudi kettu
Every pilgrim carries a bundle called the irumudi kettu. This is a two-part cloth bundle. The front section holds offerings for the deity, including coconuts filled with ghee. The back section holds the pilgrim's own food and supplies for the trek. No pilgrim is allowed to climb the final sacred steps without carrying this bundle on their head. It is both a ritual object and a practical one, and preparing it correctly is taken very seriously.
The 18 sacred steps
The most sacred part of the temple approach is a flight of 18 steps called the pathinettampadi. Only pilgrims who have completed the 41-day vow and are carrying the irumudi may climb them. Each step is held to carry a specific spiritual meaning in the tradition, though interpretations vary. Climbing these steps is the emotional and religious peak of the entire journey.
The age restriction on women
Traditionally, women of menstruating age were not permitted to enter the temple. The reason given in the tradition is Ayyappa's celibate nature, and the belief that women of that age group should not approach a deity who has taken such a vow. This practice has been debated and contested, including in Indian courts, and the situation around it has changed in recent years. Different groups hold strong and opposing views. What the tradition holds and what the law permits have not always aligned, and this remains a live and sensitive topic.
A custom that crosses religious lines
One of the most unusual aspects of the Sabarimala pilgrimage is a stop at a mosque. Pilgrims traditionally visit the dargah of Vavar, a figure from local legend said to have been a close companion of Ayyappa. This stop is part of the pilgrimage route and is observed by many devotees before reaching the hill. It reflects a long local tradition of shared sacred space between Hindu and Muslim communities in this part of Kerala.
The Mandala season and today
The main pilgrimage season is called Mandala, falling roughly in the months of November and December. The temple also opens at other times during the year. Millions of pilgrims make the trek each season, making it one of the largest annual pilgrimages in the world. Pilgrims come from across India and from the diaspora, and the sight of large groups of men in black, chanting Ayyappa's name, is a familiar one on roads across South India during the season.